ADAM'S Fine Jewellery & Ladies Watches 13th May 2025

193 JAR. A PAIR OF RESIN ‘TICKLE ME FEATHER’ EARCLIPS Of stylised feather design, in purple resin and 18K gold, signed JAR, numbered, with maker’s mark, French assay mark, with maker’s pouch, length 6cm € 7,000 - 8,000 Joel Arthur Rosenthal is one of the most exclusive and sought-after jewellery designers in the world, and yet, he remains a mystery to many. Founder of JAR, Rosenthal is known for his reclusive nature and limited production, making his creations highly coveted. His boutique in Paris's prestigious Place Vendôme doesn't advertise its presence with flashy signage or displays. Instead, the doors open only to a select few, such as Prin- cess Caroline of Monaco, Ann Getty, Marella Agnelli and Princess Firyal of Jordan, ensuring that his work stays re - served for an elite clientele. A New York City native, Rosenthal never intended to en- ter the world of jewellery. After graduating from Harvard with a degree in art history and philosophy, he moved to Paris and opened a needlepoint shop. Though his busi - ness began slowly, his experiments with unusual colours of yarn attracted the custom of designers for Hermès and Valentino. It was through one of these clients, who asked him to design a mount for a gemstone, that Rosenthal's path toward jewellery design was set in motion. His growing fascination with fashion led him back to New York, where he worked at Bulgari's Fifth Avenue store. However, it was his love for gemstones that eventually drew him back to Paris in 1977, where he and his partner, Swiss psychiatrist Pierre Jeannet, opened an exclusive boutique. While JAR's name remained relatively unknown outside of Paris for years, his 2002 exhibition at London's Somer- set House showcasing 400 of his pieces brought his work to global attention. A perfectionist, JAR shuns mass production and com - mercial trends, opting instead for an almost secretive, highly selective approach. This dedication to artistry and exclusivity culminated in a major retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2013, making him the first living jeweller to be honoured with a solo exhibition there. JAR's designs are celebrated for their daring use of un - conventional gemstones, materials and striking colour combinations. His jewellery, often inspired by nature, transforms ordinary elements such as flowers, butter - flies, and wildlife into intricate works of art. His mastery of materials like titanium and aluminium, paired with his innovative ombré colour schemes, adds a modern, sculp- tural quality to his pieces. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted, with only 70 to 80 jewels created annually, ensuring both exclusivity and a sense of personal connection with each client. One of her notable clients is Ellen Barkin, who in Decem - ber 2006, after Revlon mogul Ronald Perelman blindsid - ed her with divorce papers, turned the tables by selling her world-class jewellery collection at a Christie's auction in New York. The jewels, all gifts from her ex, included piec - es once owned by the Duchess of Windsor and Doris Duke, but it was her 17 JAR pieces that stole the show. Highlights included a 22.76-carat thread ring and her favourite topaz, ruby, and diamond earrings, which she wore to the 2005 Van - ity Fair Oscars. The auction reached $20 million, with JAR pieces such as di - amond bangles and a diamond ring each surpassing $1 mil - lion. Ellen didn't just sell jewellery but a story of revenge and unapologetic glamour. JAR's influence on the jewellery world is profound. His work, blending antique techniques with modern sensibilities, has inspired a new generation of jewellers and helped re-estab - lish high jewellery as a true art form. For nearly half a century, Joel Arthur Rosenthal has remained an elusive figure in luxury jewellery, letting his creations speak for themselves with un - matched artistry and vision.