ADAM'S FINE JEWELLERY 3rd DECEMBER 2024

T uesday 3 rd D ecember 2024 . S tarting at 4 pm 36 44 ATTRIBUTED TO CARTIER: A RARE ‘TUTTI FRUTTI’ GEM-SET & DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1930 Of shield shape, the central carved sapphire foliate motif,within emerald bead borders, to an old European and single-cut diamond surround accented with baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18K gold,unsigned,French import marks, length 3cm,width 2.4cm € 15,000 - 20,000 Accompanied with a certificate of authenticity from IAJA (The International Antique Jew- ellersAssociation) based in Paris, stating that the brooch is by Cartier NewYork, circa 1930. Report no.Xp1527 - 040124 Bernhard Berger is a renowned jewellery consultant who served as Director of CartierTradition for 22 years. He is widely regarded as one of the world’s leading au- thorities on the Maison Cartier. Olivier Bachet is a distinguished jewellery consultant and expert, and a member of the Compagnie Nationale des Experts. Initially an antique art dealer, he has spent the past 20 years specialising in vintage Cartier jewels. He authored Cartier, Excep- tional Objects withAlain Cartier and InThe BeginningWasThe Line: CartierArt Deco Drawings 1910-1930. His extensive expertise has established him as an internationally recognised specialist on vintage Cartier jewellery. With its origins in the Art Deco designs of the 1920s, Cartier's 'Tutti Frutti' style has become one of the most sought-after jewellery motifs to this day.The design is a distinct multicultural fusion of Eastern andWestern influences. By combining colour- ful Indian carved stones with the period’s monochromatic trends, Cartier upheld their motto: "never copy, always create." The term ‘Tutti Frutti’ was coined in the 1970s and copyrighted by Cartier in 1989. Its roots trace back to 1901, when Queen Alexandra of the United Kingdom commissioned Pierre Cartier to create a necklace to complement her colourful Indian gowns. This piece, adorned with rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, was a foundational influence for Cartier’s 'Tutti Frutti' jewellery. Jacques Cartier drew further inspiration during his 1911 trip to India for the Delhi Durbar, where he encountered Maharajas adorned in vibrant jewels. Captivated by their ornamentation, Cartier sourced the most exquisite gems and antiquities to be sold from the London branch to the European elite. By 1925, “Art Deco” was officially recognized at the Paris Expo- sition des Art Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The Cartier brothers emerged as trendsetters; their designs blendingWestern clean lines with Eastern carved gems and colourful beads were heralded as a celebration of global cultures and creativity. Initially referred to as the “foliage” line or “pierres de couleur,” these pieces featured carvings of flowers and leaves, with many stones varying in quality and colours.Their popularity surged af- ter the Crash of 1929, signalling the public’s desire for vibrancy and novelty. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, 'Tutti Frutti' designs flourished, inspiring jewellers across Europe and America. Notable figures like Daisy Fellowes commissioned the exquisite “Collier Hindou” necklace in 1936, while Marjorie Merriweather Post requested a pendant with Mughal emeralds. These commissions elevated the style and its popular legacy further. As World War II approached, jewellery design shifted from the delicacy of Art Deco to the boldness of the Retro period. Never- theless, Cartier's timeless 'Tutti Frutti' creations endure, remain- ing coveted by collectors today. Each piece tells a story of cultural fusion and artistic innovation, embodying the prestige of the icon- ic Cartier house.