Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches 10th September 2024

T uesday 10 th S eptember 2024 . S tarting at 4 pm 80 Marina Bulgari is celebrated as one of today’s leading women in the jewellery world. In 1976, she left her family’s famous jew- ellery house to start her own brand, Marina B.With a bold and ambitious spirit, she created a unique style that honoured her family’s legacy while establishing her own reputation. Marina B’s jewellery is known for its rich, luxurious look com- bined with a modern touch. She not only invented new gem- stone cuts but also reinvented classic ones. Her first showroom opened in Geneva in 1978, and soon after, she expanded to bou- tiques in Milan, Paris, and NewYork, gaining a global following. The period between 1978 and 1983 was marked by remarkable creativity in jewellery design, particularly with the exploration of triangular motifs. The rich imagination of this era led to a wealth of unique and innovative creations that would inspire countless variations in the future. In 1978, Marina encountered a striking collection of trian- gular diamonds in Antwerp, displayed across an entire table by diamond dealerVyevano.This discovery sparked a wave of inspiration. Upon returning to Robert Sublon’s atelier in Paris, Marina presented her find, envisioning an extraordinary piece: the spring-mounted choker.This initial creation set the tone for a series of exquisite designs, all cantered around the theme of triangles. From 1980 to 1983, Marina’s creativity flourished with sever- al exceptional pendant earrings. Notably, the Troc earrings ex- emplify her innovative approach. These limited edition of five earrings feature intricately cut precious stones, including ba- guette diamonds and a striking onyx stem, culminating in a head adorned with baguette diamonds and rubies. Crafting these ear- rings posed significant challenges, particularly in balancing their proportions and centre of gravity to achieve the desired effect. The Troc earrings exemplify Marina’s mastery in transforming simple geometric shapes into stunning works of art, demonstrat- ing her ability to push the boundaries of design and create time- less pieces that continue to captivate and inspire. Drawing inspiration from its remarkable archive of over 12,000 sketches, Marina B has entered an exciting new chapter under the leadership of renowned jewellery designer Guy Bedarida. In 2017, Bedarida, known for his influential roles at Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, and John Hardy, took the helm at Marina B by acquiring a majority stake in the brand and becoming its creative director.This marked a seamless blend of past and pres- ent as Bedarida infused the brand with his unique vision while honouring its rich, opulent heritage. Earlier this year, we mourned the loss of Marina B herself, who passed away on Valentine’s Day at 93 in her Rome home. Her lasting impact on the jewellery world is evident in every beauti- ful piece, reflecting her timeless style and spirit. © Courtesy of Guy Bedarina. Marina B archives

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