Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches 10th September 2024
T uesday 10 th S eptember 2024 . S tarting at 4 pm 36 36 VERGER FRÈRES: A RETRO DIAMOND BRACELET, CIRCA 1945-50 Of openwork scrolled design, composed of palmette-shaped motifs of bi-coloured design, each terminal enhanced with bril- liant-cut diamonds, to fluted connectors, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 6.50cts total, with maker’s mark ‘VF’ forVerger Frères, French export mark, length 17.2cm € 10,000 - 15,000 Verger Frères was founded in Paris in 1872 by FerdinandVerger, who quickly gained fame for his superb jewellery, clocks, and watch- es. Ferdinand began his apprenticeship at just 11 years old with the esteemed Parisian watchmaker Lépine. After serving in the Fran- co-PrussianWar and working in London, he returned to Paris and started his own business. Initially focusing on women’s watches, he built a strong partnership withVacheron Constantin, laying the foun- dation for his success. By 1896, Ferdinand had registered his maker’s mark, “FV.” In 1911, his sons Georges and Henri joined the business, prompting a name change toVerger Frères and the introduction of a new mark, “VF.” This new chapter heralded a period of significant growth and cre- ativity.The firm became known for its close collaborations with top artisans of the era, including Lalique and Makovsky, and for pioneer- ing techniques. Notably, they were one of the two Parisian houses to produce the famous “mysterious clocks.” Verger Frères earned the title of the‘jeweller’s jeweller’ because they supplied many top jewellery firms. Unusually for the time, they did not create pieces based on clients’ designs but instead sold their own original designs to retailers. Their designs, which drew inspiration from the synthesis ofArt Nouveau andArt Deco, continue to inspire creativity today. During the 1920s and 30s,Verger Frères was at its peak.Their jewel- lery and watches were highly sought after by prestigious names like Cartier,Van Cleef &Arpels,Tiffany, and Bulgari.They offered exclu- sivity to their clients and showcased unparalleled craftsmanship. In Hollywood,Verger Frères pieces were worn by early film stars such as Joan Crawford, Katharine Hepburn, Greta Garbo, and MaeWest. What set Verger Frères apart was their commitment to in-house production. They employed over 200 skilled craftsmen, including goldsmiths, enamellers, engravers, gem cutters, and watchmakers, ensuring high-quality work and meticulous designs.Throughout the 1940s and 50s, the company remained family-owned and continued to produce intricate designs using the finest gems.Their pieces, often in gem-set 18ct yellow gold with bold scrolling profiles, reflected the prevailing fashion of the time. Today,Verger Frères is celebrated for its elegance and craftsmanship. While many collectors appreciate their pieces, some remain less rec- ognised due to the emphasis on the retailer’s name, making Verger Frères even more sought after.The company is now part of Atelier Bouder, which has carefully restored the brand’s heritage, using old drawings and models to recreate famous pieces while continuing to produce both classic and new designs.
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