Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches 14th May 2024

63 Chaumet's esteemed designers and jewellers, including the likes of Pierre Sterlé and René Morin, upheld the Maison's iconic style while infusing it with a contemporary twist. The 1970s epitomised a time of experimentation and liberation. Across music, politics, fashion, ideals, and space exploration, every realm offered avenues for fresh encounters. Embracing change and exploring uncharted territories required the emer- gence of new identities, artisans, and visionary thinkers pio- neering innovation. These trailblazers significantly influenced the trajectory of jewellery history, they contributed to pivotal moments through advancements in technique, the introduction of novel aesthetics, and the embrace of liberated concepts. In a bold move that reshaped the landscape of jewellery, Chaumet introduced the Arcade, a revolutionary store concept, in 1970, redefining the very essence of luxury shopping. Amidst whispers in the press, Chaumet entertained the idea of crafting a novel sales unit devoted to jewellery and contempo- rary living. The Chaumet brothers entrusted Agence Bernard Cognard with the task of envisioning this modern realm.The in- terior designer faced the challenge of giving the Arcade its own architectural identity separates from the historic boutique.They strategically placed a central showcase pillar in one of the twin arcades, creating an open space reminiscent of an art gallery. Black and Orly blond anodized aluminium materials contrast- ed with Place Vendôme's traditional aesthetics, while frame- less windows added an ethereal touch. Inside, the Arcade was designed as a sanctuary for a modern lifestyle, with elements like beige sofas and Chinese lacquer accents blending in hues of rye, amber, and black. Inspired by decades design, the space was engineered for adaptability, with ceiling-mounted rails and wheeled display units. The Arcade symbolized a global transformation during a crucial period in the Maison’s history and the realm of French jewel- lery craftsmanship. Its design reflected innovative approaches to presenting, selling, and purchasing jewellery, aligning seamlessly with the evolving lifestyle of the 1970s. Despite the coordina- tion of traditional boutiques alongside the Arcade, both units featured their collections in unified sales catalogues.What may appear counterintuitive by contemporary standards was viewed differently in that era.The Arcade spearheaded future advance- ments for Chaumet and other leading jewellery houses, show- casing iconic collections like Liens and Labyrinthe. At the core of this progressive approach lay experimentation, artisans were granted full creative autonomy, both within the design studio and workshop. This freedom extended to the ex- tent that they appropriated the use of gold nuggets, dubbing their finishing technique the "Arcade polish." Gold underwent various treatments, including hammering, polishing, texturing, brushing, and assuming organic forms, moulding itself to the wearer's skin.These creations, blurring the boundaries between traditional jewellery and art, challenged conventions through their innovative designs. The advertising for the Arcade embodied dynamic design, stra- tegically crafted to ward off monotony.This evolution extend- ed beyond mere sales catalogues, encompassing architectural © PATRICK LEJEUNE (LEFT PAGE. CHAUMET AD. CIRCA 1970)