Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches 5th December 2023
T uesday 5 th D ecember 2023 . S tarting at 4 pm 74 98 AN 18K GOLD ‘LOVE’ BRACELET, BY ALDO CIPULLO FOR CARTIER, 1970 The hinged bangle decorated with screw motifs, in 18K gold, signed Aldo Cipullo Cartier, dated 1970, with maker’s case and later screwdriver for opening and closing the bracelet, inner length approximately 16cm, width 6.3mm € 5,000 - 6,000 99 A DIAMOND ‘LOVE’ RING, BY CARTIER The band decorated with alternate screw-head motifs alternating with collet-set brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, signed Cartier, numbered, Swiss assay mark, Italian registry mark, European convention mark, size K½ (EU 51) € 2,400 - 2,800 Designed in 1969 in NYC, the Cartier Love bangle was the creation of Italian jewellery designer, Aldo Cipullo, who cre- ated this piece in 1969. “Love,” said Cipullo, “has become too commercial, but life without love is nothing. What modern people want are love symbols that look semi-permanent — or, at least, require a trick to remove. After all, love symbols should suggest an everlasting quality.” Cipullo was known for his innovative and bold designs. Ini- tially he had proposed the design of the Love Bangle for Tif- fany &Co. When Tiffany turned down his concept for the Love bangle, Aldo offered the design to Cartier. At the time, Cartier New York was independent from the Parisian Mai- son, and under the dynamic direction of Michael Thomas, who immediately saw the massive potential of the Love Ban- gle to appeal to a new generation with entirely new values, lifestyle, and attitudes. The Love Bangle as a symbol of ev- erlasting love and commitment. The bangle features a sim- ple, sleek design with a screw motif, inspired by medieval chastity belts, and it is meant to be worn as a symbol of love and unity. It is distinctive for its seamless, unbroken design, with a screwdriver needed to open and close it, symbolizing the idea that love is something to be kept safe and protected. As the story goes, the bangles could at first only be purchased by couples who would surrender the screwdrivers to one an- other. When Cartier introduced the bangle, they were giv- en to high-profile couples like Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. According to Vogue, some NYC hospitals keep a Love bangle screwdriver on hand in case patients need their accessory removed in an emergency. While a Cartier Love Bangle may be easier to remove than a chastity belt, it has still proved enduring, and a smart investment. What makes the Cartier Love Bangle even more intriguing is the way it is meant to be worn. Traditionally, the bangle is given by one partner to another, and it is secured on the wrist with the help of the accompanying screwdriver. Once fastened, it is typically not meant to be removed, symbolizing the perma- nence of the relationship. The Love Bangle quickly gained popularity among couples, celebrities, and fashion icons. Its iconic design and symbolism resonated with people around the world. The bangle not only became a symbol of love and commitment, but a status symbol as well.
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