Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches 5th December 2023

T uesday 5 th D ecember 2023 . S tarting at 4 pm 60 71 A GEM-SET AND DIAMOND BROOCH, BY SANZ, CIRCA 1960 The stylised scarab beetle resting on a openwork knife-wire gold leaf, the wings highlighted with turquoise cabochons, the head with single-cut diamonds and sapphire cabochons for eyes, mounted in 18K gold, signed Sanz, partial maker’s mark, French import mark, length 4.3cm € 1,400 - 1,800 72 A GOLD JARRETIÈRE BRACELET, FRENCH, CIRCA 1950 The wide articulated snake-link bracelet with chevron terminal, in 18K gold, with maker’s mark ‘RD’, French assay marks, length 21.5cm (length adjustable) € 3,000 - 4,000 Maison Sanz was a small jewellery busi- ness founded in 1854 by Felipe Sanz de Mon- tera y delValle in an apartment located at 36 Calle Montera in Madrid. In 1912, the busi- ness was moved down the street to number 29, on the initiative of the jeweller’s sons, Juan, and Luis, in search of a larger clientele. Upon the death of their father, in 1917, the two brothers separated. Luis, who learned a lot about jewellery from very significant Madrid based jewellers such as Laloche, Mellerio and Ansorena, opened a fine jewel- lery store with a new name: “Luis Sanz, SL”. While Juan retained the name of Sanz as well as the shop in Montera.As the Royal Family commenced vacationing in San Sebastián, Luis Sanz decided to branch out his business there, attracting important women of aristo- cratic background.This choice proceeded to build international recognition for Sanz, giv- ing him the nickname of “the Kaiser of jew- ellers” throughout Europe. Building on its success, the Sanz House became the supplier of the Spanish royal family. Sanz was com- missioned to set a necklace for Queen Vic- toria Eugenia with emeralds from a crown made in 1858.The colourful jewels with the imposing shape were able to seduce the elite Spanish clientele of the twentieth century.