Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches 5th December 2023

T uesday 5 th D ecember 2023 . S tarting at 4 pm 28 18 A 19TH CENTURY ENAMEL AND GEM-SET HOLBEINESQUE PENDANT, CIRCA 1870 The neo-renaissance style set with an oval-shaped garnet cabochon within an openwork vari-coloured enamel surround, accented with rose-cut diamonds and pearls to cardinal points, suspending a pear-shaped garnet cabochon pendant, with glazed compartment on the reverse within engraved foliate and scrolling detailing, mounted in gold, length (including bale): 6.7cm € 800 - 1,200 Holbeinesque jewellery is a term used to describe a distinctive style that was popular during the mid-19th century. Named after the German art- ist, Hans Holbein the Younger, who was known for his detailed and realistic portrait paintings, the jew- ellery is characterized by its intricate, highly ornate designs, often featuring enamel work, gemstones, and intricate gold or silver metalwork. This can be recognised by a large centrally placed cabochon gem, an engraving or inlay mounted in gold with coloured enamels. The back of each piece is often meticulously carved using scroll and foliage decoration. John Brogden and his colleague, Carlo Giuliano of- ten copied jewellery depicted in Holbein's portraits of Tudor ladies from the court of Henry VIII. Other jewellery houses that produce Holbeinesque jewel- lery include Jules Wièse, Boucheron, Chaumet, and Vever. The metalwork in Holbeinesque jewellery was typ- ically ornate and detailed, with intricate filigree, granulation, and scrollwork. The designs were often inspired by Renaissance and Gothic art, in- corporating elements such as arches, columns, and floral motifs. Gemstones, such as diamonds, pearls, and coloured gemstones, were also commonly used to enhance the overall aesthetic. Holbeinesque jewellery was highly fashionable during the Victorian era, particularly during the mid-1800s, as it captured the romantic and nostal- gic spirit of the time. Queen Victoria herself was known to be a fan of this style, and her influence helped popularize it. These pieces were often given as tokens of love, making them cherished heirlooms within families. Today, Holbeinesque jewellery pieces are highly sought after by collectors and antique enthusiasts. Their craftsmanship, historical significance, and timeless beauty continue to captivate those with an appreciation for intricate and meaningful adorn- ments. The legacy of Holbeinesque jewellery lives on as a testament to the enduring appeal of finely crafted, sentimental jewellery from the past.