Adam's FINE JEWELLERY & WATCHES 17th May 2022

T uesday 17 th M ay 2022 . S tarting at 4 pm 82 121 A GEM-SET BRACELET, BY M. GÉRARD The highly articulated strap set throughout with series of circular-cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds, highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds, finishing with a reeded gold clasp centring a circular-cut sapphire within collet-setting, mounted in 18K gold, signed M.Gérard,1966,with maker’s mark for André Vassort, French assay marks, length 16.7cm € 6,000 - 7,000 Frenchman Louis Gérard worked for many years for the world-famous house of Van Cleef & Arpels before making the decision to establish a maison of his own in 1968. Thus, the house of M Gérard was born and opened its doors for the first time at 8 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. Gérard worked primarily with the Atelier Vassort workshop producing magnificent suites of jewellery of the highest quality and craftsmanship and lavishly decorated with diamonds and precious gems. A character with a large personality, Gérard delighted in throwing fabulously stylish parties from Cannes to Monte Carlo, for the jet-setting elite he proudly called cli- ents. His boutiques were situated in London, Lausanne, Monte Carlo and Gstaad, an upscale resort town in the Swiss Alps. However, the rapid expansion and extravagant entertaining budget sadly proved unsustainable and in 1985, Gérard was forced to sell out to a group of American investors. He later succeeded in re-gaining his company and re-launched under the name of Louis Gérard, Joaillier International but this suc- cess was short-lived and by 1991, the firm was forced once again to shut its doors. Today, pieces from the prestigious house continue to be highly sought after for their magnificent quality. A number of pieces by the house appeared as highlights ofThe Royal House Sale at Christies Geneva in November 2006, one of the top ten most expensive private jewellery collections ever sold at auction. In the secluded streets of Paris, shadowed by the celebrity of the great jewellery maisons of France, work the craftsmen whose talents feed the ever-hungry mouths of glamour. In December 1955, at 34 rue Sainte Anne, AndréVassort reg- istered his atelier and soon became one of the most sought-af- ter jewellers in France. He was quickly employed by names such as Boucheron, Van Cleef and Arpels, Mauboussin and FRED. His work adorned their most discerning clients and he became a favourite in carrying out special commissions. Of particular note was the crown that he created underVan Cleef and Arpels for Empress Farah of Iran. Taking six months to complete, the magnificent piece is iridescent with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls, mounted in white gold and set against a backdrop of forest-green velvet. Vassort specialised in working with gold, drawn to the warmth and texture that could be coaxed from the metal, however, he did not shy away from other materials. His understanding of gemstones allowed him to create bold and colourful pieces, such as the current lot.Working anonymously for larger hous- es, a large portion ofVassort’s work is unsigned, but, here, we are gifted with his maker’s mark ‘AV’. When André Vassort closed his workshop in the early 1990s, his name and work were revered within the jewellery industry and his pieces had become synonymous with enduring quality.