Adam's FINE JEWELLERY & WATCHES 17th May 2022

79 The symbol of luck, it has become an immediately recognisable signature of the House of VanCleef &Arpels and is probably themost easilywearable piece of high jewellery in existence.Although the use of flowers and clovers occurred often prior to the creation of theAlhambra, the simple line of the sautoir signalled a defining moment in style history both forVanCleef &Arpels and for high jewellery in general. Delicate, sophisticated and effortlessly stylish, the subtle yellowgold chain plays host to a series of yellow gold beaded silhouettes, each gently framing a selection of natures finest and most precious materials fromwhite and grey mother-of-pearl, to malachite, carne- lian, lapis lazuli, ivory and coral, or as this example all gold. It is an embodiment of the skilled lapidaries, jewellers, stone-setters and polishers whose craft makes theAlhambra so effortless and fluid. While the Alhambra has had many patrons, none has been more illustrious than the beautiful Princess Grace,or Grace Kelly as shewas previously known.Although as a favouredmuseof thehouse,sheowneda virtual treasure troveof gems byVanCleef &Arpels, her everyday jewellery box contained threeAlhambra sautoirs. One in malachite,one in tortoiseshell andone incoral.Interestingly,themalachite edi- tionwas limited to only 100 pieces due to the rarity of thematerial.Each of these is numbered and can still be identified today. Van Cleef & Arpels continue to create and renew the Alhambra as time goes on. However, none are more coveted than the original first collection from1968.