Adam's FINE JEWELLERY & WATCHES 17th May 2022

T uesday 17 th M ay 2022 . S tarting at 4 pm 72 107 A GOLD RING, BY CARTIER, CIRCA 1970 The openwork frontispiece modelled with initial ‘MP’ or ‘DU’ to a plain gold hoop, in 18K gold, signed Cartier, numbered 84973, ring size H¼ € 400 - 600 106 A GOLD AND DIAMOND ‘PÉNÉLOPE’ NECKLACE, BY CARTIER, CIRCA 1990 Composed of a woven gold chain, the clasp with a double C-motif set with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, signed Cartier, numbered, with maker’s mark, French assay marks, with Cartier large case and traveling pouch, length 47.5cm € 15,000 - 20,000 The emergence of the Businesswoman in the 1980s called for bigger, bolder jewellery to become a state- ment to the shifting power dynamics as women gained real power in the workforce for the first time in his- tory. Cartier’s Penelope collection reflected this in its use of bright yellow gold and open weave chain links layered atop one another to create a look that was both sumptuous yet militaristic; chainmail for the modern woman doing battle in the office space.The iconic Cartier Double Cs was the other defining feature of the collection, mostly in the form of diamond studded clasps for an element of sparkle, but also as standalone clip-on earrings so beloved by the era. Penelope continued to be sold by Cartier until the late 1990s, however the collection is no longer in pro- duction and so pieces can only be obtained through auction and high-end vintage jewellers.