Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches Tuesday 14th September 2021

T uesday 14 th S eptember 2021 . S tarting at 6 pm 70 95 A RARE HAWK’S EYE AND DIAMOND BIRD BROOCH, BY STERLÉ, CIRCA 1955 Designed as a majestic bird, the torso composed of hawk’s eye with long articulated gold tassel tail feathers highlighted with bril- liant-cut diamonds, with similarly-cut diamond crown, eyes and beak, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 3.00cts total, signed Sterlé Paris, numbered 7.558, with maker’s marks, French assay marks, length 10.2cm € 12,000 - 18,000 Sterlé’s fascination with recreating the natural world inspired him to go above and beyond many of the goldsmiths and jewellers of his time. Following a visit to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo in the early 1950’s and a glimpse at the intricacy of one of Cleopatra’s bracelets,the Frenchman strove to emulate what he had seen and apply it to the creation of his designs inspired by nature. He is thus credited with the invention of what aptly became known as his distinct ‘angel wire’ or ‘knitted gold’ technique, whereupon gold wire was twisted or braided by Sterlé in such a way as to enable the artist to reproduce both the delicacy, density and movement of a birds wings and plumage in a remarkably tactile and dynamic fashion. For a comparable Bird brooch by Sterlé, see catalogue for the exhibition ‘Birds in Paradise’ (2019), page 101, curated by L’École, School of Jewellery Arts, withthe support ofVan Cleef &Arpels, which took place 15th May - 13th July 2019 in Paris. Pierre Sterlé (1905-1978) was famed for his innovative approach to jewellery design, embodying the dynamics of 1950s design. The son of a family of bankers, Sterlé trained as a jeweller in Paris under his uncle Maynier-Pinçon following the death of his father during the First World War. In 1934, he founded his own jewellery making company and was sponsored by many large jewellery houses located on the Place deVendome, including Boucheron, Chaumet, andVan Cleef &Arpels, who had already used his talents for their own firms. Sterlé’s talent as a designer soon allowed him to emerge from his status as a jewellery manufacturer to a successful jeweller and artist in his own right. His reputation was cemented when he won the De Beers DiamondAward, a major achievement in the jewellery world, for three years running in 1953, 1954 and 1955. Sterlé’s success as an artist during this time ensured he received large-scale recognition in France as well as on a global scale. He worked for many heads of state and royalty, including Queen Nar- riman of Egypt and Princess Soraya of Iran and socialised with fellow avant-garde artisans in France, such as Jean Cocteau, Georges Bracque and Salvador Dalí. His work is distinguishable by his intricate pieces, wrought with great movement and energy, often using baguette-cut diamonds and coloured gemstones in sweeping, curling lines. Above all, it was Sterlé’s invention of the ‘knitted-gold technique’ or ‘angel thread’ which would lead to his fame at the climax of his career in the 1950s and 1960s.The meticulous use of gold plaiting and threading en- abled him to emulate recreate the intricacies of the natural world, from the textures of flowers and plants, to the wings and feathers of his famous bird brooches, all executed in a strikingly tactile and dynamic way.Although a talented jeweller, Sterlé did not experience the same level of success at business and suffered the closing of two of his own stores throughout his lifetime. Forced to close his house in 1976, Sterlé continued his work at the Maison Chaumet, where he acted as Artistic Director until his death in 1978.