Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches Tuesday 14th September 2021

61 83 A PAIR OF JADE AND DIAMOND EARCLIPS, BY BUCCELLATI Each composed of a circular carved jade plaque depicting the profile of a bird, within foliate textured gold mount, embellished with graduated old brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 5.00cts total, signed Gianmaria Buccellati, length 4.2cm € 12,000 - 18,000 84 AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND DRESS RING, CIRCA 1955 The central octagonal-shaped emerald weighing approximately 3.90cts, within a frame of old cushion and brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 1.50cts total, ring size N½ € 7,000 - 9,000 Accompanied by a report from CISGEM in Italy, stating that the emerald weighing approximately 3.90cts is of Colombian origin, with moderate clarity enhancement. Report number 13015, dated February 27th 2019 The world-renowned Italian house of Buccellati is famous for its textural gold jewellery and exquisite silver objects.The family firm was founded by Mario Buccellati (1891 – 1965), dubbed the ‘Prince of Goldsmiths’ due to his indelible style and mastery of goldsmithing techniques. Buccellati’s founder was primarily inspired by the richness of Renaissance art and drew from forgotten antique jewellery techniques of the period. Mario’s revival of traditional tools led to the house’s highly recognisable style, blending traditional elements from 16th century Italy with the glamour of La DolceVita to grow the brand into the household name it remains today. Four of Mario’s five children grew up to work for the family business. His sons Luca and Gianmaria took over the reigns of the Buccellati workshop upon the death of their father in 1965. Gianmaria inherited his father’s keen eye for detail and love of Renaissance techniques, having been apprenticed under him from the age of fourteen. Gianmaria was highly skilled technically and of all Mario’s children, he wasthe most obvious candidate to assume the firms primary role. From the moment he started out, his aim was to continue the transition of the business from a highly successful household name to a global jewellery empire.Alongside his brother Luca,Gianmaria embarked on a further expansion of the business to the US and globally throughout the 1970s, opening stores in Hong Kong, Japan and Monte Carlo.The opening of a flagship boutique in the renowned PlaceVendôme in Paris in 1979 meant Gianmaria Buccellati was the Italian jeweller to do so, confirming his status amongst the most prestigious jewellers in the world. Gianmaria’s designs, like those of his father, are highly distinctive.They stand out not only for their impressive attention to detail and the great wealth of materials used, but above all for the meticulous care dedicated to the themes which inspire the pieces.The work of Gianmaria transposes elements from the natural world into wearable jewellery. He invented a new method of working in silver to capture fine details like feathers, petals, hair, or different types of skin, which became known as “lavaorazione a pelo” or “hair-like workmanship”.This technique crafted in the elaborate style of the Renaissance has enabled Gianmaria’s nature-inspired pieces to come to life, becoming a signifier of the Buccellati brand.Today, most pieces are indeed still designed by members of the Buccellati family. Gianmaria’s sonAndrea has been at the helm of the business for the past few decades as the Gianmaria now focuses his attention to the development of his eponymous foundation. Inaugurated inVenice in 2008, the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation is a 21st century answer to the founder of the firm’s great wish to share his passion for the art of jewellery.The Foundation pursues academic research on the art of goldsmithing and jewellery design, ensuring the Buccellati family continue their mission to contribute their great wealth of knowledge and experience to the world of jewellery.