Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches Tuesday 14th September 2021

29 33 A DIAMOND AND ENAMEL ‘LUDO HEXAGONE’ DRESS CLIP, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, CIRCA 1937 Designed as a stylised buckle of hexagonal-shaped links, each centring a single-cut diamond, the arched clasp pavé-set with old European-cut diamonds between black enamel borders, signedVan Cleef & Arpels, numbered, with maker’s mark ‘Pery & Fils’, French assay marks, length 3.7cm, width 2.8cm € 12,000 - 18,000 For a comparable piece, Bennett, D. and Mascetti, D., eds. (2003) Understanding Jewellery. Antique Collectors’ Club, Suffolk. The iconic Ludo bracelet first emerged from the workshop of Van Cleef &Arpels in 1935. It was christened after the youngest of the four brothers behind the founding of the business, Louis Arpels, who was fondly known as ‘Ludo’ by his close family and friends.The bracelet was the Maison’s first design in a brick-link mesh format and centred around an intricate clasp inspired by a belt buckle.The first ever collection’s muse, Hélène Arpels – Louis’ wife – would slip the bracelet over long black gloves to highlight the lines of the gold brickwork or later wear a Ludo clip on her lapel. Over time,Van Cleef &Arpels experimented with the design pattern of the links. One such variation which became particularly popular was the beehive pattern, composed of a mosaic of small articulated hexagons in polished gold. Since the 1930s, a number of iterations of the Ludo have developed, with the iconic design transitioning between bracelets, watches, or lapel pins such as this lot.Whether brooch or bracelet, the Ludo always incorporates a buckle-like element as the decorative focus, an ode to the haute couture trends of the 1930s.The buckle clasp sometimes remains unadorned but can more often be seen studded with various gemstones in an ornamental motif and set with brilliants, baguette diamonds or cabochon rubies.The Ludo style has remained relevant and popular ever since its initial creation, becoming an emblematic piece of the Maison. Its sleek and timeless aesthetic and graceful silhouette have been recently reimagined byVan Cleef &Arpels, who launched a brand new collection of the Ludo style last year in 2020, featuring three head-turning bracelets and one or two watches whose dial can be detached and worn as a clip on the lapel, in a full-circle moment for the Maison’s and celebrating Hélène Arpels, the original Ludo muse.