Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches 8th December 2020

T uesday 8 th D ecember 2020. S tarting at 4 pm 38 Mokume Gane is a 17th century term, originating in Japan, referring to the metalwork process which uses a mixed-metal laminate to create a design of layered patterns. Initially used in the decoration of samurai swords, the word Mokume Gane translates from Japanese as 'Wood Grain Metal' or 'Wood Eye Metal'.The aim of this process is to present the illusion of natural wood grain, referencing eyes, burls, swirls and layers.This distinctive pattern is created by fusing various metals into a 'billet', or stack of metals.The billets are then folded, forged and carved to create the natural grain-like appearance. Mokume Gane uses precious metals that are long lasting and incredibly durable.Traditionally, copper was used to achieve this look, being of particular importance to knifemakers and metalsmiths who work on a larger scale. On account of its more delicate nature, jewellers tend to place a greater emphasis on silver and gold when incorpo- rating the method into their pieces. 37 A RARE SAPPHIRE AND GOLD COMPACT, BY CHARLES HOLL, CIRCA 1945 The rectangular case composed of a geometric abstract pattern of tri-coloured gold stripes inspired by the ancient Japanese metalworking technique of mokume-gane, decorated with fancy-cut sapphires within gold zig-zag bor- ders to each end, the thumbpiece set with a step-cut sapphire opening to reveal a mirror lid and glazed powder well compartment, in 18K gold, French assay marks, maker’s mark for Charles Holl, numbered, width 7.4cm, length 4.9cm, depth 1.1cm € 4,000 - 6,000 Charles Holl was an exceptional French jeweller whose workshop enabled the designs of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels during the 1930s ‘Golden Era’. Holl’s aesthetic, knowledge and skill, along with his reputation as a master setter, was an excellent match for luxury jewellery maisons and he was often employed to carry out specific commissions. Holl specialised in particularly intricate mounts, such as calibré-set mountings, with one of his signature settings being the basket-weave pattern. Each setting was perfectly chosen to best complement the gemstones with which he worked. Holl’s aim was to transform the ordinary into a work of art, beautifully adorn- ing everyday objects with precious materials, as is seen with the compact on offer in this sale.