Adam's Fine Jewellery & Watches 15th September 2020 at 4pm

68 T uesday 15 th S eptember 2020. S tarting at 4 pm 96 AN IMPRESSIVE RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘ISPHAAN’ DEMI-PARURE, BY MARINA B, CIRCA 1980 Designed with fan-shaped motifs of graduated oval-shaped cabochon rubies within collet-setting, each surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds, with a pair of pendent earclips en suite, mounted in 18K gold, diamonds approximately 12.00cts total, both signed Marina B, both with maker’s marks, French assay marks, with signed cases, necklace and earrings numbered, necklace length approximately 36.7cm, earrings length 3.1cm € 30,000 - 40,000 A necklace of similar design from the ‘Isphaan’ collection is illustrated in Marina B:The Art of Jewellery Design, byViviane Jutheau deWitt, page 130 Born in Rome in 1930, Marina Bulgari was the daughter of Costantino Bulgari, the eldest child of BVLGARI jewellery company founder SotiriosVoulgaris.When her grandfather passed away in 1932, Marina’s father and uncle Giorgio then took over the busi- ness.The company became a very important part of the family’s life and was a constant in Marina’s childhood.At a young age she developed a passion for art and design and after graduating from Saint Mary’s College in England, she returned to Italy and began contributing to the BVLGARI studio. She quickly established herself as a vital member of the brand’s design team, with her innate understanding of style and shape.After a few years she made the decision to go out on her own and found Marina B, in 1977.The following year she opened her first boutique in Geneva, and soon afterwards others followed in Paris, Milan and NewYork. With the established name of her family company within the jewellery world, Marina was keen to set herself apart from them. From the late 1970s to the early 1990s, the voluminous, bold, and colourful jewellery of Marina B, was the brand of choice of famous movie stars like Sophia Loren, and other fashionable women of the period. Marina B’s designs use of colour in her jewellery was considered ground-breaking at the time and what made them a product of the modern era. In her work, 18k yellow gold is matched with an array of coloured gemstones. Diamonds are a strong part of the designs but are used sparingly, often as a contrast to the coloured gold and gemstones and in pavé patterns. Although particularly fond of spring-mounted chokers, Marina was still obliged to make meshed necklaces to satisfy the demand of her clientele.The first series, the Isphaan, appeared in 1980, which was inspired by a trip Marina took in late 1970s to Iran. Her vis- it to Isphaan was a defining moment:”When evening fell, light faded from the sky and it turned from blue to yellow, which reflected the two domes, of the same colours, standing out against the sky”. She remarked “They made a burning impression on my imagina- tion”.The Isphaan necklace is composed of a single or double row of Oriental motifs in pavé of diamonds with central oval precious stones, cabochons or faceted.This series of necklaces was also accompanied by a matching bracelet and pair of earrings. Almost 45 years after Marina B founded her eponymous brand, her distinct aesthetic remains as contemporary as ever. Under the direction of Guy Bedarida, Marina B’s designs continue to appeal to famous stars, including Rihanna, Alicia Keys and Jennifer Lo- pez, who all wear them at red carpet engagements.The designs of Marina B continue to push the boundaries of jewellery creations, which are inspired by the original bold inventions. Her modern vision, created a brand which inspired a first generation of women to buy jewels for themselves.