ADAM'S FINE JEWELLERY & WATCHES Tuesday 17th September 2019

22 T uesday 17 th S eptember 2019 Art Nouveau was the first truly international design movement of the twentieth century and owing to its close association with the work of Louis ComfortTiffany became known as theTiffany Style in America. It was popular between 1890-1910, during the period known as the belle époque. Jewellery was one of the most important expansions of this movement and the industry underwent a stylistic revolution. Soft, sinuous lines and organic forms inspired by flora and fauna characterise the jewellery of this period.To decorate these natural motifs, jewellers favoured the use of smaller gemstones rather than larger, more dramatic diamonds as seen in the previous centuries.The decora- tive femininity and elegance of this period could be beautifully described through pastel enamels, miniature gemstones, and curved metal lines, making jewellery the perfect medium to express the spirit of the Art Nouveau. Louis ComfortTiffany took up the study of enamels and jewellery more than 20 years after he established his reputation in the decora- tive arts. He was always eager to conquer new artistic terrain.As an artist who participated in major expositions of the day in Paris and elsewhere,Tiffany was well acquainted with European, primarily French and Belgian,Art Nouveau jewellers of the age, including René Lalique, HenriVerver and PhilipWolfers. Louis Comfort joinedTiffany in 1902 and established the “Tiffany Art Jewellery” department.This new division was headed up by Julia Munson and was responsible for the production of highly imaginative and innovative Art Nouveau pieces.Tiffany’s design studios and work- shops forged their international reputation and established American metalworking and jewellery skills on a level with those of Europe. Tiffany’s jewellery success was recognised at the International Exhibitions in Paris with multiple awards gifted to them circa 1900s. After his father’s death, Louis ComfortTiffany became the firm’s first Artistic Director.A patron of the Metropolitan Museum of Arts, as well as a founder of the NewYork Society of Fine Arts, his contributions to the field were later rewarded with his appointment as a chevalier of the Legion of Honour.Today Art Nouveau pieces byTiffany are highly collectible and can be seen in the collections of many museums internationally, including at the Met in NewYork. Collectors and jewellers worldwide seek out vintageTiffany estate jewellery, such as the 14ct gold mesh purse featuring sapphire cabo- chons and seed pearls, because of the craftsmanship, beauty and how well it retains value.The gold mesh is beautifully interlinked.The delicate floral detail etched in the frame of the purse is typical of the Art Nouveau style of this 1910 piece. 24 AN EARLY 20TH CENTURY GOLD, SAPPHIRE AND PEARL COIN PURSE, BY TIFFANY & CO. CIRCA 1900 Designed as a delicate fine gold woven mesh purse enhanced by two cab- ochon sapphires on the clasp and strap, with a seed pearl tassel and floral engraved closure, to a mesh-link wrist-strap, in 14K gold, signedTiffany & Co., length 29.5cm € 1,200 - 1,800